How Much Does it Cost to Fix or Service a Humidifer or Dehumidifer?

Fixing Whole House & Home Furnace Humidifier

Average repairs to these units will be $115 to $300. Homeowners install whole house and furnace humidifiers to work in conjunction with the HVAC system. There are many benefits to adding a home humidifier, including maintaining a healthy balance of moisture - about 30% - in your home. While most of these units are affixed directly to the furnace or ducts, higher-end steam versions have greater flexibility and can work independently of your HVAC system. Steam types will be more complex to fix than the most common models, many of which you can troubleshoot yourself, to a certain point.

Dehumidifier Repair Costs

Typical dehumidifier repairs cost $50 to $200. There are many issues that homeowners can troubleshoot on their own, but more complex problems should be handled by an HVAC technician. Common problems with dehumidifiers include freeze-up, clogs in the drain lines, dirty coils and component failure. Most humidifier professionals will also be equipted to service your humidifier, but consult with your pro prior to hiring to receive a service quote.

Cost & Ways to Repair or Replace Parts

Repairs cost an average of $200. If a technician only needs to clean and lubricate your unit, you won't pay as much as if they have to replace a part. HVAC technicians commonly charge a flat rate over an hourly rate and this will include an initial service fee, labor and parts If you break down your entire service cost into an hourly rate, you'll likely pay $100 to $200 per hour. Initial service fees for this kind of work are in a range of $50 to $100 and labor typically breaks out to be $50 to $70 per hour.

These costs will vary depending on the service provider. Highly rated providers can charge up to and over $100 per hour in labor. Also consider that parts for decades-old units will be even more expensive and, if you have such a model, it will be more cost-effective to install a new one.

Solenoid Valve Replacement

Solenoid valves cost an average of $45, though valves for higher-end types are $60 to $80 and lower-end are $20 to $40. This part tends to get stuck in a closed position and fail. You will have to replace it. Otherwise, the system will not work at all.

Your HVAC technician will turn off the water at the saddle valve, which connects the humidifier's supply line to the main supply line. Next, they will disconnect all electrical and water connections from the solenoid and remove it. Then they will replace it with a new one and connect the new part to the water and electric. As a final step, they will perform a test-run.

NOTE: If you are doing this yourself, turn off the power to the furnace before you start.

Water and Float Valve

Valve and float assemblies for these units run $15 to $30. You will need to replace the float valve if it still won't perform after a cleaning, if its connector is defective or if the seal is no longer tight enough.

Humidifier Tank

A replacement tank will be $20 to $300. The tank will be much less expensive for smaller units than for larger ones. For example, a $20 tank would be compatible with a portable style while a $300 one works with high-capacity steam options.

Fan

When the fan doesn't move, the responsible part will likely be the motor or the humidistat. Motors are an average of $55 and humidistats are $30 to $100, if either of these turns out to be faulty and you need a new one. However, it may be that they aren't receiving power. This could be because of a tripped breaker or bad wiring. You can troubleshoot a tripped breaker without the help of a professional, but you shouldn't try to rewire the system yourself if you don't have extensive electrical knowledge.

Evaporative Pad

These range from $6 to $25, depending on the model you have. In evaporative styles, the pad - also called the water panel or filter - is one of the most important parts. You need to change it on a yearly basis - at the least - because it collects minerals and build-up. For the first year of operation, check the pad halfway through the season to see if yours gathers more buildup than average. A blocked pad will make your system less efficient, and it may stop producing humidity all-together.

You can replace these on your own. Simply turn off the power source and open the cover of the unit. You can easily access the pad or filter from there and change it out.

Filters

Apart from the evaporative filter, your equipment will have a filter in the solenoid valve that catches large particles before they make it to the pad - all costing about $4. It is also known as an in-line strainer screen. If water isn't passing from your solenoid valve into the humidifier, this is probably clogged up with debris. In some models, you can change this filter for an average of $4. However, you may need to replace the entire solenoid valve.

Humidistat

These cost $30 to $100. If your humidistat isn't functioning properly, though, you may not need to replace it. It could be having issues getting power from its power source or it may be on too low of a setting. If your humidistat is the problem, your best option is to contact a professional with electrical experience for a specific quote and services.

Hire a Pro to Inspect and Service Your Humidifier or Dehumidifier

Common Problems

You can easily diagnose many of the common problems, such as replacing or cleaning a small part. If you have an evaporative type, which is easy to work on and navigate, these fix can be as affordable as $65. If you have a steam version, parts are more expensive and navigating the unit will take more time and expertise. You could pay closer to $500. The price of repairs may outweigh the price of installing a newer, more efficient model, in which case you should consider replacing the entire system.

Not Working or Won't Turn On

The most common culprit when your system won't turn on or function appropriately is the humidistat. The humidistat is responsible for sensing humidity levels and telling the unit to turn on. If the power supply to this part is bad or the part is malfunctioning, your whole system will not turn on. Other possible culprits are the solenoid valve, the drum motor and a tripped breaker.

Leaking

The water supply provides the moisture that's necessary to adequately humidify your home, so it's not surprising that leaks are a popular problem. This supply is either turned on by the humidifier to fill a reservoir tank or it flows continuously over a filter medium whenever the furnace blower is on.

If the unit has a reservoir, when the water collects to a certain depth in the holding tank/tray, a mechanical float ball rises to the surface and shuts off the supply. If the float mechanism sticks or is otherwise defective, the flow may not shut off properly--so the tank/tray overfills and spills out onto your floor. In this case, you may need to replace the entire float mechanism.

If your system flows continuously while the furnace blower is running, let your professional know and they will check all hose and/or tubing connections to be sure that everything is tight and make sure the drain line/tube is unobstructed and unclogged. Your leak could be as simple as loose connections and fittings, clogged or kinked drain lines or a degraded hose.

No Steam or Mist

Your unit may sound and look like it's working without producing humidity or steam. This likely has to do with the water source. There could be a clog anywhere along the intake or drain lines, from the valves to the filters. If it's not as simple as clearing build-up or fixing a kink, you may have a problem with your solenoid or your humidistat.

Not Turning Off

When the water won't stop running to your unit and the system won't turn off, it's usually similar to what happens when toilets run - the valve is stuck open. Your solenoid valve may be malfunctioning due to wiring problems or, more likely, it is stuck due to build-up. This valve is sensitive, and the smallest bits of build-up can prop it up.

Isn't Raising Humidity

If your system is receiving water but it isn't producing enough humidity, it's likely that you need to change your evaporator pad or panel. You need a new one before the start of each heating season. In dry climates where these systems run for longer periods of time, you will need to replace these components more frequently. In areas with hard water, your panel or pad will collect more sediment and you will need to replace it more frequently as well.

It's Making Noise

You can expect your system to make various small noises, but unusually loud ones or consistent buzzing are signs that you need to either clean or replace the unit. Often, a clog or unlubricated motor are the cause of the noise. Maintenance and cleaning should take care of these. Otherwise, check for loose connections and vibrating parts. In dehumidifiers, loose screws and parts are common and easily fixed.

It Smells

Smells are more than a minor nuisance. In drum models, a bad smell is a sign of mold and bacteria. Drum styles are most prone to this problem because they involve standing water. You must properly maintain and clean their reservoirs to prevent mold growth, otherwise your unit will release particles of bacteria into your ducts and your home. If your unit is a dehumidifier, your coils may be dirty or there could be water caught and stagnant in the hose.

It Freezes Up

This is unique to dehumidifiers. Most aren't designed to work under 60 degrees, due to their method of operation (refrigerant). If your unit freezes up in a warm climate, you may have a blockage, your refrigerant may be low or you could have a compressor problem.

Furnace or Whole House Humidifier Fixes by Brand

Aprilaire

This brand supplies a 5-year limited warranty on parts. The product must be purchased through and installed by a licensed HVAC professional, and you have to register for your warranty online. If you don't have it professionally installed, the agreement will be voided. The agreement covers parts but does not include the water panel or pad, as this is something that you change annually. If you have a defective part within the covered time-frame, they will send you a new one for free. The agreement does not cover labor but it does require you to seek professional services for electrical component replacement.

There are Aprilaire maintenance kits which come with everything you need to change out your filter or pad and descale components annually. Before you work on your product, be sure that you understand your warranty and anything which may void it. Call your professional if you are unsure.

Honeywell

These come with either a 1-year limited warranty or a 5-year limited warranty, depending on which humidifier you choose and how you buy it. If you purchase it at a retailer, you will most likely have 1-year coverage. Purchases made through a certified HVAC professional are more likely to have 5-year coverage, depending on the model. The company will repair or replace the product if the defect is not due to user damage. This does not include the pad or panel. They will not cover labor costs.

Carrier

Carrier products come with 10-year limited warranties. When you need a repair within the warranty period, their agreement directs you to contact your installer. They will cover defective parts and workmanship. Certain parts such as water pads and steam canisters are not included. You must register the product for this agreement within 90 days of installation. It is also important to use factory-authorized, brand replacement parts in order to maintain the coverage, should you be responsible for replacing it.

Consult with a Repair Pro When Servicing Your Humidifier

Troubleshooting

Before you try to troubleshoot the product, check your warranty. You could void a valid warranty if you work on it yourself. On the other hand, your installer may permit a certain amount of DIY testing. If you're unsure of your limitations under warranty, call the manufacturer.

Once you've decided to inspect the unit, be sure to turn off its power and water supplies.

• Check for debris and scaling. Pay special attention to the evaporator pad which catches a lot of build-up over time. Open the cover of the humidifier and check the status of this evaporator pad. Also check other components for scaling. If these things are dirty, try cleaning them and replacing the evaporator pad. Cleaning can solve many problems, from clogs in water lines, to buzzing noises, to lack of evaporation and even smells. For dehumidifiers, clean or de-ice the coils for proper operation. Dirty coils could be what's keeping your unit from working.

• Inspect for leaks in the water lines and the reservoir. Inspect them closely to zero in on the source. You may only need to tighten a few fittings, or you may find a corroded line.

• Test your humidistat if there's a lack of humidity or your unit won't turn on. The humidistat may be set too low or too high. Before calling a professional, try turning the humidistat to a setting calling for greater humidity, then turn your furnace up 5 degrees higher than the current room temperature. When the furnace blower turns on, the system should function. If it doesn't, you may have lost power to the unit, or one of the electrical components may have failed--the valve, motor, or step-down transformer.

If your system doesn't function properly after taking such measures, you should call a professional HVAC technician. It is likely that you have electrical issues or need a new part.

Hire a HVAC Pro to Test and Inspection Your Humidifier

Tabletop & Console Humidifiers

Tabletop and console models are controlled by a humidistat that turns the unit off and on when the humidity levels stray from a set range. If you don't believe your system is keeping the proper moisture levels for your room or house, check this control device. Though this allows for "automatic" operation, you will need to dial it up and down as the temperature changes to keep the indoor levels constant.

Keep in mind that higher moisture levels in chilly air will make the air feel colder. If you have a humidifier and your house feels cold in the winter, even when your heat is working correctly, then your humidistat may be set improperly or may be working incorrectly.

Tabletop models are less expensive to fix because you can physically take them to the shop - you won't need to pay for someone to visit your home. Also, check with your professional - it may be cheaper to replace the unit that it will be to fix it.

Repairing Ultrasonic Portable Units

Ultrasonic humidifiers are a type of cool-mist personal model. They use ultrasonic vibrations to generate mist from a reservoir of water. The membrane is the main component and the most common reason for failure. If this component has a significant amount of build-up, it won't be able to create the pressure that sends mist into the air. You can often remedy this problem by cleaning the membrane and other parts.

Other reasons for device failure include:

• Low water levels

• Problems with the power source

• Blockage in the water tank

• Bad parts, such as the transistor

You can easily replace parts that aren't functioning. From there, the best way to prevent future issues is to clean the device regularly. Be sure to unplug the system before cleaning and use caution around the electrical components.

Cleaning and Maintenance

Build-up on parts often leads to product failure. Therefore, if you can keep up with cleaning and maintenance, you can extend the life of your equipment and avoid some pesky repairs. Here are a few tips to keep your system running smoothly:

• Let your manual be your guide. All whole home models come with owner's manuals. They will have information unique to your model and guidance for disassembling, cleaning and maintaining it.

• Don't work with the power on. Always turn off the power to your equipment before cleaning.

• Beware standing water. Drum models have reservoirs which can breed bacteria quicker than any other model. Keep this reservoir clean and disinfected.

• Change your panel at least annually. You need to clean or change the panel / evaporative pad at least once a year. This will ensure the highest level of efficiency and air quality. In dryer climates or in places with hard water, you may need to clean and change it more frequently.

• Clean basic components. Clean away mineral deposits to maintain components like drain lines and fan blades. For steam models, your manual will instruct you to clean the overflow pan and tank, as well as the drain and supply tubes. For dehumidifiers, keep the coils free of dust and debris.

• Check for leaks. Throughout the year, keep an eye on the water lines connected to your system. The sooner you catch a leak the better.

• Monitor the reservoir. In dehumidifiers, the reservoir can fill up and shut down your unit. Watch for drainage problems and blockage. You should also regularly clean the reservoir, to prevent bacteria and mold growth.

If you find that you can't keep up with the cleaning and the build-up is significant, you may need to install an air cleaner in your ducts. These purify the air, lowering high pollutant levels in the home. The average cost of whole home air cleaner installation is $1,600. Air cleaner repair prices average $270.

DIY vs. Hiring a Pro

You can easily troubleshoot minor problems yourself. This is especially true with dehumidifiers, which are easier to repair with the help of an operator's manual. However, when it comes to the electrical and plumbing, it's best to call an HVAC professional. You risk your own safety and the safety of your home when you attempt a job like this without the proper skill level. The cost to hire a technician isn't prohibitive enough to risk your whole heating and cooling system.

Hire a Humidifier Repair Specialist